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SPRINGTIME
CAMELLIA CULTURE
by Walter
Creighton
There are three main things for camellia culture in the springtime:
1. Spraying
2. Pruning
3. Fertilizing
In this article more time will be spent on fertilizing than on spraying
and pruning.
Spraying:
Use oilicide for scale - follow directions on the label.
Use Orthene or Isotox for aphids and other pests.
Dieback is caused by a fungus that invades the plant through wounds and
leaf nodes. There is no fungicide
recommended for this disease as yet,
but Bayleton has been somewhat effective.
Pruning:
Basically there are three ways to prune camellias. Japonicas may be
pruned severely or to the shape that you desire.
(a). Prune dead wood and spindly
growth first.
(b). Shape the plant into shape
desired.
(c). Thin out center of plant in
order for air to circulate through plant and spray to cover center part
of
plant.
Fertilizing:
There are many different fertilizing programs that people use.
If you have one that pleases you, stick with it.
Plant Requirements:
This discussion will be on plants in the ground, rather than in pots,
since most people have plants in their yard.
If you want healthy plants with good flower size and color, you must
have some knowledge and use care in fertilizing your plants.
Fertilizing can be done in two ways; by foliar feeding and root feeding.
I use root feeding exclusively.
Good healthy plants must have water, oxygen and carbon in various
forms. The plant’s greatest need
is the three
basic elements of commercial fertilizer.
These are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
In addition to these basic elements the minor elements are necessary.
The minor (trace) elements needed are calcium, magnesium, zinc,
iron, copper, sulphur, manganese and boron.
Most of these are present in the soil, but occasionally need to
be supplemented. It makes no
difference if these elements are present in organic or inorganic
fertilizer. The plant breaks down
compounds into the elements before using them.
Soil bacteria play a huge role in breaking down fertilizer for the roots
to take up these nutrients.
Nitrate bacteria break nitrates into nitrites.
The soil must have the proper pH range in order for the needed elements
to be taken up by the plant.
The ideal pH range is 6.4 to 6.8.
In order to obtain this range lime (CaCO3) may be used to
increase the pH, or superphosphates may be added to the soil to decrease
the pH reading . Different pH
levels are required for each element breakdown by the plant. (see
table below).
N2 -
pH 5.5 - 9.0
K
- pH 5.5 - 9.0
P
- pH 5.9 - 7.0
Ca -
pH 6.1 - 8.5
Mag -
pH 4.0 - 5.2
Zinc -
pH 5.1 - 7.0
Cu -
pH 5.1 - 7.0
Water is an absolute necessity for these elements to be used by the
plant.
Fertilizer
As mentioned earlier, there are
organic and inorganic fertilizers.
Inorganic fertilizer contains three basic elements: nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium. You
will see these elements written on each bag in the form of 4-12-12,
13-13-13, 8-8-8,
6-5-12, etc.
These fertilizers are made to breakdown in varying degrees. Sta-green
is a quick release fertilizer containing the basic elements and minors.
Nutricote and Osmocote are slow release fertilizers.
They are coated with a substance that breaks down with water over
a period of time. These are generally called 9-month fertilizers. Some
may last up to 12 months. Sta-green
is a 2 -3 month fertilizer. The slow releasefertilizer, due to slow
breakdown, will not burn plants as fast as the quick release ones.
They will also be washed away over the longer period if a lot of
heavy rain occurs. If you use
slow release be sure to mulch real well.
Examples of organic fertilizers are:
cottonseed meal, manure, sludge, leaf mold, etc.
It is generally safe to use these because of the very slow
breakdown.
If you use the inorganic fertilizer, read the label on the bag to
determine the presence of minor elements.
Some of these commercial fertilizers do contain the minors.
Deficiencies:
When plants become stressed or sick they show symptoms.
In order to observe these you must look closely at your plants
each day. The following are some
symptoms of sick plants:
Nitrogen weak, spindly growth
Phosphorus weak, spindly, short
growth
Calcium smaller growth tips and
leaves look burnt
Manganese orange/yellow leaves
Zinc clear necrotic spots on
leaves
Iron white on young foliage
Boron orange/yellow leaves
Sulphur light yellow foliage
Copper white mottling on young
foliage
A
soil sample analysis by a source available to you will tell you a lot
about your soil deficiencies.
Application of Fertilizer:
Springtime is the correct time to apply the first application of
fertilizer to your plants. Using
quick release fertilizer, you should apply about three times per year.
In the springtime (March) apply a high nitrogen fertilizer with trace
elements.
In summertime (June) apply another application of same fertilizer.
In fall (September) apply low nitrogen fertilizer.
Do not apply too heavily at one time.
It is better to apply a moderate amount, but do it on three
occasions. The amount ot use depends on the size of the plant. In pots,
one tablespoon per gallon is recommended. So use accordingly to
plants in the ground. Put a good
layer of mulch down to keep fertilizer from washing away.
Moderate size plants require about a good double handful.
Camellias root very shallow, so apply fertilizer all around the
plant and out some from the trunk.
If you apply a 9 or 12 month slow release fertilizer, apply only one
time in the spring.
CAUTION: if you apply too much
fertilizer a toxic salt develops around the roots and the
plant will show leaf burn.
It is better to apply too little than too much.
CAUTION: Do not use high nitrogen
fertilizer in the fall of the year because new growth will be promoted
and an early front or freeze will kill the new growth that occurs.
The growth should be hardened off in the fall
and buds set for the following season.
The feeding at that time of year is for flower quality , rather
than plant growth.
Remember - plants can way over
eat, just like people, and can suffer the consequences.
Page last modified 08/02/2012 |